After celebrating the Eid al Kabir with our Marakchi family, we were overwhelmed and suffering from cultural overload. I’d also been sick all week, so our trip to the little coastal town of Essaouira was a welcome break. We arrived early evening, and found that a lot of things were closed for the holiday. We had two days to do very little, and that’s just the way we planned it. Essaouira is a little fishing town, so we wandered around the port, ate grilled fish from one of the many fish hawkers, and toured the little alleys and shops. It was a great way to wind down and gear up before heading back to the city of Marrakech.

Our first breakfast at Dar Liouba started with a yummy flan-like custard. This was followed with toasted breads, tea, coffee and tangerine juice.

Place Orson Wells

Fishing off the rocks

Seagulls and cats were the main residents of the town.

The cat on the right is huge. I called him Mr. Bigs.

Lots of people were strolling and sitting along the water.  The first day was so slow and peaceful, coming off the holiday.

Shops selling goods made from wood from endangered thuya trees were plentiful.

The ramparts

One of the main gates into the medina

Fish prices are regulated, so all the vendors near the port sell at the same prices. Choosing which one to eat at is kind of a coin toss.

Grill stands selling fresh fish

I got this hairy crab, which was tough to eat once it was grilled. The hair became needle sharp from the heat!

Kite surfing is a popular activity in the coastal towns of Morocco.

These babouche souqs were everywhere in the cities.

“Natural viagra turbo for more love pleasure and satisfaction.”

Chicken cart

Dried dates and figs

Nuts and dried fruits

Snoozing on the job

Spice market

Snake potion

Tiniest of kitties, sitting on a sardine box.

After we left the Todra Gorge, we were due to head to Skoura (valley of kasbahs) to spend the night, but due to our curiosity and many questions about Eid al Kabir, our driver Hicham (prounounced Ee-sham) invited us to his family’s home in Marrakech to experience the holiday with them the next morning. It’s once a year and the biggest holiday for Muslims, next to Ramadan so we felt pretty honored to have this opportunity (He said it works out for everyone because we can participate and see how they do everything, and he’d get to be with his family for the celebration!). So we are switched up our plan and drove through Skoura and Ourazazate, passing by Ait Ben Haddou. None of the sights we were due to see in these areas would be open on the holiday anyway, so it was more than fine for us to skip them.

After an almost 12 hr drive we arrived at Hicham’s family home, just outside the Marrakech medina. We met his parents, twin sisters, a couple of cousins, and I lost track from there. It was all a bit overwhelming after so much time in the car.

Eid is the most important Islamic holiday. It follows the Hajj, or the pilgrimage to Mecca. It’s a family holiday which starts with prayer at the local mosque (for the men). The women make breakfast, and afterwards the men sacrifice the sheep, commemorating Ibrahim’s willingness to sacrifice his only son, Ismael, to show his ultimate devotion. This is similar to the story of Abraham and his son Isaac in Christian religions. Each Moroccan family sacrifices a sheep to represent their devotion to Allah. In Marrakech and Fez this is done on the roof. I’m not sure if it’s like that everywhere in Morocco.

The sheep is then skinned, and certain parts are removed for various preparations. On the day of Eid the men cut up the organs, mix them with spices and herbs to help wih digestion of the freshly killed meat, and skewer it with tiny bits of fat from the sheep. The skewers are grilled and eaten with bread. Other Eid traditions include giving parts of the sheep to friends, family, and the poor, new clothes for children, dressing up in nice clothing for the celebration, working sons giving gifts to their parents, and visiting family and friends (or in the modern day, calling and texting everyone) to wish them a “Happy Eid!” We were very fortunate to have had Hicham as our driver for the week and that he invited us to join his family for the holiday. What an amazing and unforgettable experience!

Twins Yasmine and Nesrine wanted to make sure we were dressed up for the festivities, so while breakfast was being prepared, we had a bit of a fashion show.

Breakfast started with something similar to Israeli couscous, or tiny pieces of pasta, with a sauce of butter, onions and spices drizzled over. It was savory and delicious!

Next up were platters of breads - the far one was similar to a pancake, made with a runny batter, and only cooked on one side, so there are bubbles on top. The other is a fluffy layered bread made with semolina and pan-fried on both sides. Both are drizzled with honey for a sweet delicious treat!

After breakfast, everyone went upstairs to watch the men sacrificing the sheep.
(Yasmine, me, Nicole, Nesrine)

The women in their holiday best.

The mother of the house showed us the real way to prepare couscous. First you pour water and oil over the couscous.

Next, you fluff and separate the couscous between your hands.

Then you steam the couscous in a special pot, over a pot of meat and veggies, which will be served over the couscous. The fluffing process is repeated every 20 minutes or so.

Our littlest friend, Iman, was always at the center of the action.

The men preparing the kabobs of kidney and heart.

Iman loves to clean. I suspect she will have a very clean house when she’s grown up.

Kabob of kidney (I tried everything I was given)

Couscous is ready!

Nicole, me and Yasmine

We learned the proper Moroccan way to eat couscous - grab bits of the softened vegetables with a handful of moistened couscous, knead and toss it into a ball, then pop it in your mouth. Check out our couscous ball skills!

Our Moroccan family

*Note: I’m sure not all of you would like to see photos of the sacrifice of the sheep, so I’ve put those up on here on Flickr. But fair warning, it’s rather graphic. If you can’t handle it without saying “ew, gross!” please stay here on the blog.

On our way out of Merzouga, we stopped off at the Ksar al Fida museum in Rissani, once the home of King Moulay Abdellah, son of King Moulay Ismail. It’s also the most ancient Alaouite ksar of Tafilalet. The museum contains traditional cooking vessels, dress, jewelry, carpets and doors, among other things.

While our friends and family back home were gobbling turkey and stuffing, Nicole and I hopped on our trusty camels and rode into the sunset. After a couple of hours drive from the Ziz Valley, we arrived in Merzouga and had an hour or so to relax, have some tea and prep for the journey to the (tourist) Berber camp in the desert.

View of the dunes from Merzouga

And off we go! I named mine Camel. Nicole named hers Tom Hanks.

Riding into the desert at sunset

Camels are slow, uncomfortable and sometimes fussy modes of transportation. Mine was loud and grumbling, but Nicole’s became naughty, knocking off the guide’s turban and chirping in defiance for the last five minutes before we got to camp. Riding camels isn’t so tough, the worst being when they stand up (they rise from the back first, so they tip forward quite a bit), and when they walk down a dune (same prob).

Sand dunes

Pretty waves in the sand

Camel footprints (and poop)

Me and Camel, Nicole and Tom Hanks

View of Camel’s head from my perch on his back. Camels have small ears and long eyelashes.

Camel and Tom Hanks

Gorgeous sunset

Another group of camel-trekking tourists off in the distance.

Once the sun went down, it got dark quickly, so it was almost pitch black by the time we got to the camp. When we got to our tent, we realized we had a roommate. I named him Mouse. Nicole was not amused.

Dinner was served in the dining tent. We started with a delicious hot “Berber” soup, which had a little kick. I loved it. Perfect for the chilly night we had ahead of us.

The main course was a chicken tagine, with preserved lemons and olives. This is one of the most common tagines in Morocco.

After dinner, I wrote in my journal and watched a little TV on my iPhone. Nicole had a cell phone signal, so she texted “Happy Thanksgiving from the Sahara Desert!” to some friends and family. Nothing like a little technology out in the middle of the desert! Here I am, all bundled up for bed. It was pretty chilly out there, but we had some good, heavy wool blankets to keep us warm.

Nicole bundled up in a hat and scarf, and put her shoes in a bag to keep out scorpions. I don’t know if there really are scorpions out there, but there weren’t any in my unbagged shoes the next morning.

We woke up bright and early to watch the sunrise. Absolutely breathtaking.

At night, to keep the camels from running off, they tie one of the front legs. They can stand, but walking on three legs would be a challenge. Seems a little cruel, but I can’t say I would have been happy to have to walk back to Merzouga over the sand dunes.

Sun rising over the dunes

A few minutes later, the sky went from pink to yellow.

Tiny animal tracks

Our desert guide said this is a mouse house.

Entrance to the Berber camp (now that we could see it in the daylight!)

The tent we shared with Mouse.

The camp bathrooms. There was running water (little sink on the side) and flushing toilets. This is my kind of roughing it.

While we packed up to go, the guide warmed up our camels for the ride back to town.

Farewell to our Berber camp!

Breakfast awaited when we returned - fresh OJ, hot coffee and tea, freshly fried dough, bread and hardboiled eggs.

Mini tagines with preserves, honey and butter.

After breakfast and a quick shower, we headed out to a museum and the Todra Gorge. This would turn out to be a very long day on the road.

The Ziz Valley, a little oasis of palm trees tucked into the desert mountains, consists of three rural villages of date farms. The residents grow many varieties of dates and sell them in markets in other parts of Morocco. They also farm much of their own food. Tata took us on a tour of the village where he was born. It seemed everyone we encountered knew him, as if he’s a local celebrity. We learned a little about how dates are farmed (some are pollinated by nature and the wind, while other trees get a hand from the farmers), how each village has a president, and that women can vote and can be president, but family and cultural obligations would make it difficult for her to do the job fully. We also learned how the municipal water system is set up and regulated amongst the three villages. We made our way to the next village and to Tata’s family’s home, which houses 17 people, including his parents, wife, three children, and some other siblings and their families. Tata’s wife made us a delicious lunch before we headed out to Merzouga.

The Ziz Valley oasis

Tata and Hicham admire the view

This desert plant was dried and hard as a rock. Tata said camels eat this plant in the desert.

Nicole, Tata and me

Date palm trees in the valley

In the village where Tata was born, this is a gathering place for celebrations.

In the past, there was a door to this gate.

This little dam controls the flow of the water to one farmer’s land and home for a day or so, then the dam is moved to send the water to another farmer. The valley’s water system is dictated by a schedule and village laws, one of the many things the village presidents are responsible for.

Smaller garden in front of Tata’s family home

Dates hanging from the tree

Tata’s son built a dog house on the edge of the stream, in hopes that his parents will give him a dog.

Tata’s wife adding dried palm branches to the oven.

Homemade bread, ready for baking.

Dates

Families welcome guests with dates and milk.

Here’s that freshly baked bread - definitely the best we had this entire trip!

Salad of tomatoes and peppers

Cucumbers dressed in something slightly sweet, maybe rosewater.

Roast chicken

Vegetable couscous

Tata shared his lunch with his 3-year-old daughter

On our way to Merzouga, we drove behind a van with sheep on the roof. Can you spot the sheep?