In Split, I stumbled upon the best fish market I’ve ever experienced. There were fish of all kinds, large and small, plus shells, large cuttlefish, octopus, shrimp, all the best the sea has to offer. The place was mobbed with locals and restaurant folks scrambling for the freshest catch of the day. Apparently the nearby sulfur springs keep the flies away. And the most amazing thing? This market closes up and disappears by noon every day, so you’d never know it was there!

So many fish!

The fish market was packed.

Old school scales

Ugly!

Uglier!

This one was still wiggling when the fishmonger picked it up.

Fish medley

Swordfish steaks

Cuttlefish

Tuna steaks

Shrimp and cuttlefish

Octopus

Mussels

Skate

Cured fish

If you know me well, you know I cannot resist a farmers’ market, and Split’s Green Market was no exception. You can find anything here from clothes to souvenirs to food, and you can see where my focus was. There was fresh fruit and veggies, dried fruit, farmers cheeses, honey, fresh bread and more. It was the perfect place to find goodies for a picnic for my ferry to Vis Island.

Veggies!

I had no idea what this fruit was, but the kind vendor gave me a sample, and I bought a little cup of them. Still don’t know what I was eating.

My weakness, dried figs

I bought some of these delicious tangerines.

Nothing like a beer at 9am to kick-start your day!

Dried herbs

Eggs

Baked goods - fresh bread and cookies

Filo filled with sweet cheese (I tried this, it was yummy!)

Dried meats and other grocery items

Local honey

Nuts and dried fruit

Saurkraut

Cheese!

Of course, I bought some. Along with some fresh bread and fruit from the market, I had quite a feast.

Large rounds of bread

Dried meats

Dried lavender

The Riva is Split’s promenade, running along the edge of the City Harbor, between the water and the palace wall. Strolling is a popular past time in Croatia. Gorgeous views, fresh air, and the people-watching can’t be beat!

The Riva

Model of Old Town

Coffee with cream (more like gelato) at an outdoor cafe, the best way to enjoy the harbor views and people-watching on the Riva.

I watched this woman pulling herbs from the public garden!

Men fishing along the harbor

Baggage check at the bus station

Dog “parking” outside of a market

View of the palace from across the harbor

Split is a city of contrasts. In the fourth century A.D., Roman Emperor Diocletian built a palace for retirement on the Dalmatian Coast. It was later abandoned, and in the seventh century, it was taken over by locals fleeing from Slavic invaders. They made the ruins of the palace into a fully-functioning medieval town. In the 15th century, Venetians took over this area. Today, the remains of the palace contain shops, cafes, restaurants, galleries and historic artifacts.

Statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin, a 10th century Croatian priest who urged the Vatican to allow Mass to be delivered in Croatian, rather than Latin.

You’re supposed to rub his toe for good luck - only nonmaterial wishes will be considered.

On Day 2, I took a 30-minute ride on a little ferry to Lokrum Island, which you can see from Dubrovnik’s Old Port. I wasn’t quite sure what I’d find there, but I knew it would be a nice reprieve from the thousands of cruise ship tourists who would invade the city for a day. My day on Lokrum Island turned out to be one of my favorite adventures, with amazing views, gorgeous rocky beaches, a simple hike, and peacocks everywhere!

Dubrovnik, outside of Ploce Gate

Croatians are very proud of Hajduk, their football team!

Welcome to Lokrum Island!

Peacock chick, so cute and fluffy!

Gorgeous male peacocks were all over the island.

Walking towards the beach in search of amazing views.

Found it!

Luckily I did not stumble upon any naked people, as my friend had done the day before, even on the “not naked” beach!

I love hunting for treasures in tide pools.

Brave father feeding the mellow peacocks with his son.

Group of elderly tourists identifying and chasing butterflies (seriously).

Fort Royal, up on the highest point of the island

The right tip of the island is the beach I had just explored.

View of Dubrovnik’s Old Town and the wall from the top of Fort Royal.

No pipe smoking

Or cigarette smoking

This peacock was (literally) shaking his tail feathers for all the ladies. Watch his sexy love dance!

Sadly, none of the ladies took the bait.

Peacocks wear fluffy feathers under those pretty skirts, who knew?!?!

Ferry back to Dubrovnik