While our friends and family back home were gobbling turkey and stuffing, Nicole and I hopped on our trusty camels and rode into the sunset. After a couple of hours drive from the Ziz Valley, we arrived in Merzouga and had an hour or so to relax, have some tea and prep for the journey to the (tourist) Berber camp in the desert.

View of the dunes from Merzouga

And off we go! I named mine Camel. Nicole named hers Tom Hanks.

Riding into the desert at sunset

Camels are slow, uncomfortable and sometimes fussy modes of transportation. Mine was loud and grumbling, but Nicole’s became naughty, knocking off the guide’s turban and chirping in defiance for the last five minutes before we got to camp. Riding camels isn’t so tough, the worst being when they stand up (they rise from the back first, so they tip forward quite a bit), and when they walk down a dune (same prob).

Sand dunes

Pretty waves in the sand

Camel footprints (and poop)

Me and Camel, Nicole and Tom Hanks

View of Camel’s head from my perch on his back. Camels have small ears and long eyelashes.

Camel and Tom Hanks

Gorgeous sunset

Another group of camel-trekking tourists off in the distance.

Once the sun went down, it got dark quickly, so it was almost pitch black by the time we got to the camp. When we got to our tent, we realized we had a roommate. I named him Mouse. Nicole was not amused.

Dinner was served in the dining tent. We started with a delicious hot “Berber” soup, which had a little kick. I loved it. Perfect for the chilly night we had ahead of us.

The main course was a chicken tagine, with preserved lemons and olives. This is one of the most common tagines in Morocco.

After dinner, I wrote in my journal and watched a little TV on my iPhone. Nicole had a cell phone signal, so she texted “Happy Thanksgiving from the Sahara Desert!” to some friends and family. Nothing like a little technology out in the middle of the desert! Here I am, all bundled up for bed. It was pretty chilly out there, but we had some good, heavy wool blankets to keep us warm.

Nicole bundled up in a hat and scarf, and put her shoes in a bag to keep out scorpions. I don’t know if there really are scorpions out there, but there weren’t any in my unbagged shoes the next morning.

We woke up bright and early to watch the sunrise. Absolutely breathtaking.

At night, to keep the camels from running off, they tie one of the front legs. They can stand, but walking on three legs would be a challenge. Seems a little cruel, but I can’t say I would have been happy to have to walk back to Merzouga over the sand dunes.

Sun rising over the dunes

A few minutes later, the sky went from pink to yellow.

Tiny animal tracks

Our desert guide said this is a mouse house.

Entrance to the Berber camp (now that we could see it in the daylight!)

The tent we shared with Mouse.

The camp bathrooms. There was running water (little sink on the side) and flushing toilets. This is my kind of roughing it.

While we packed up to go, the guide warmed up our camels for the ride back to town.

Farewell to our Berber camp!

Breakfast awaited when we returned - fresh OJ, hot coffee and tea, freshly fried dough, bread and hardboiled eggs.

Mini tagines with preserves, honey and butter.

After breakfast and a quick shower, we headed out to a museum and the Todra Gorge. This would turn out to be a very long day on the road.

The Ziz Valley, a little oasis of palm trees tucked into the desert mountains, consists of three rural villages of date farms. The residents grow many varieties of dates and sell them in markets in other parts of Morocco. They also farm much of their own food. Tata took us on a tour of the village where he was born. It seemed everyone we encountered knew him, as if he’s a local celebrity. We learned a little about how dates are farmed (some are pollinated by nature and the wind, while other trees get a hand from the farmers), how each village has a president, and that women can vote and can be president, but family and cultural obligations would make it difficult for her to do the job fully. We also learned how the municipal water system is set up and regulated amongst the three villages. We made our way to the next village and to Tata’s family’s home, which houses 17 people, including his parents, wife, three children, and some other siblings and their families. Tata’s wife made us a delicious lunch before we headed out to Merzouga.

The Ziz Valley oasis

Tata and Hicham admire the view

This desert plant was dried and hard as a rock. Tata said camels eat this plant in the desert.

Nicole, Tata and me

Date palm trees in the valley

In the village where Tata was born, this is a gathering place for celebrations.

In the past, there was a door to this gate.

This little dam controls the flow of the water to one farmer’s land and home for a day or so, then the dam is moved to send the water to another farmer. The valley’s water system is dictated by a schedule and village laws, one of the many things the village presidents are responsible for.

Smaller garden in front of Tata’s family home

Dates hanging from the tree

Tata’s son built a dog house on the edge of the stream, in hopes that his parents will give him a dog.

Tata’s wife adding dried palm branches to the oven.

Homemade bread, ready for baking.

Dates

Families welcome guests with dates and milk.

Here’s that freshly baked bread - definitely the best we had this entire trip!

Salad of tomatoes and peppers

Cucumbers dressed in something slightly sweet, maybe rosewater.

Roast chicken

Vegetable couscous

Tata shared his lunch with his 3-year-old daughter

On our way to Merzouga, we drove behind a van with sheep on the roof. Can you spot the sheep?