The thing you have to do in Dubrovnik is walk the town wall that surrounds the Old Town. You must. It’s not an option. It was built to protect the city from seaside invaders, and was reinforced in the 15th century, when the Ottoman navy came calling. The views of the city on one side and the sea on the other are absolutely stunning, and I had the most gorgeous day for this scenic stroll. I got an early start and was able to avoid the crowds that flood the walkways every day. I went clockwise, having missed the signs asking you to walk counter-clockwise. Call me a maverick.

View towards Pile neighborhood, where I was staying

Fort of St. Lawrence on the left

Orange tiles were used to rebuild the rooftops after the bombings of recent wars, but some buildings salvaged the old tiles.

One of many tour groups entering Old Town at Pile Gate

View towards Minceta Fortress

The Stradun

Onofrio’s Big Fountain, from above

Fort of St. Lawrence

Old Town towards the Adriatic Sea

Minceta Fortress

These little holes all along the wall provided views for the city’s defenders against naval attacks.

Another view of Old Town

The wall, down from Minceta Fortress

Clock Tower

This map shows areas where the city was damaged by the Yugoslav army, the Serbs and the Montenegrins in 1991-1992.

I woke up bright and early to beat the crowds on my first full day in Dubrovnik. It truly was the best time to roam around and explore - the cruise ships and other tour groups had not yet delivered the thousands of people who would invade the Stari Grad by 11am. I found charming little alleys, lots of stone buildings, 15th and 16th century architecture, and yummy things at the open-air market. Now I understand what draws so many visitors to Dubrovnik every year.

Pile Gate - my daily entrance into the walled Old Town

Proud Croatian flag

St. Blaise, patron saint of Dubrovnik, holds a model of the city in his left hand. Legend says that he dreamt that he warned a local priest that Dubrovnik would soon be attacked by Venetians, so the city was able to prepare their defense. When this event came true, St. Blaise became a hero and is now symbolized all over the city.

In the Middle Ages, water flowed from the mountains a few miles away to Onofrio’s Big Fountain, just inside Pile Gate.

Much of the Old Town is filled with these charming little alleys, filled with shops and restaurants.

Postings for current events and other announcements are posted here.

The Stradun in the morning light

St. Blaise’s Church

Open-air produce market, which is open daily from 8am til noon. This was my spot for a fruity breakfast every morning.

I became addicted to the dried figs, sold in bags with fig leaves. I did not indulge in the fig necklace, but isn’t it pretty?

Fresh fruits and veggies

Goodies!

The Old Port, where you can catch a small boat to the small islands nearby. Also, cruise ship passengers arrive on small boats to this dock. 

I spent my first 3 nights in Croatia in this little sobe, or apartment, in the Pile neighborhood, just a few blocks from the Pile Gate entrance to the Old Town. It’s owned and run by Jadranka Benussi and her husband. They have 3 apartments above the space they live in, and I rented the smallest, which could fit 2 people. It was comfortable, clean, and close to everything, and the hosts couldn’t have been nicer. I liked it so much, I stayed here my last night on vacation, before returning to my real home in NY.

Simple kitchenette, with fridge and stove

Two little twin beds

Small TV, where I kept up on election and market news on BBC and CNN

View of the Adriatic Sea from my window 

It’s taking a lot of time to sort through more than 1000 photos (yes, I’m a shutterbug), so let’s start here, the day I arrived in Dubrovnik. After many hours of travel, which included the subway, AirTrain, 3 flights (including a shuttle between terminals at Heathrow), and a bus, I made it to Dubrovnik’s gorgeous Stari Grad, or Old Town. It makes quite a dramatic first impression, especially if you drive in just as the sun is setting. Here are a few pics from my first evening stroll through town.

This is the Stradun, the main street that runs from the Pile Gate entrance to the Bell Tower at the far end. Back in the 7th century, the Stradun was a canal. Now it’s a thoroughfare, with touristy shops and cafes.

Luza Square, on the other end of the Stradun. Orlando’s column, in the center with the flag pole, was where the town crier came to make announcements. It was also used for public punishments.

Gunduliceva Poljan is the Market Square, site of the wonderful open market selling fresh produce, local farmers cheese, dried figs, and other goodies every morning. The restaurant to the right of the statue is where I had my first dinner in Dubrovnik.

There are so many stray cats roaming all over Croatia and Montenegro, which was a little sad. But the cutest were these kittens playing on this small model of a ship sitting at the Old Port. Notice the brave kitty climbing to the top!

I was told a visit to the little town of Perast, Montenegro was a must-see. Not because there’s anything so exciting to do there, in fact, just the opposite, it’s a sleepy little town, maybe 1/4 mile long, on the edge of the Bay of Kotor. There are 2 little manmade islands just a short distance off-shore. I didn’t have enough time for anything more than a little walk through town and a lovely lunch, but I would highly recommend Perast as a place to relax and refresh, over a big crazy resort town any day.

Beautiful, peaceful Perast

I saw a handful of people fishing, which seems to be the only activity in town.

Island of St. George

Our Lady of the Rocks

Lunch! Kajmak is a local specialty, something like cheese, but not (that’s how the waitress described it to me). You spread it on bread, it was yummy.

The real star of the show was this lightly salted, perfectly grilled seabass, which was served with a garlicky olive oil and lemon. So simple, and the best meal I’ve had on this whole trip!